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by Susan Harris

Great news from Maryland’s Cooperative Extension Service - which just happens to be routinely cited one of the best in the country.   It’s their bi-monthly newsletter, “full of  good gardening information and links” as one garden clubber wrote to tell me.  The latest issue is right here (in PDF), and it contains an update on the fabulous Grow It Eat It program and plenty of short-but-sweet tips about beneficial insects, sheet compostintg, floating row covers, and fall pruning.

To Subscribe

Go to their website and click the box “Subscribe to E-newsletter” in the middle of the page.  If you still have questions, call the horticulture consultants at 800-342-2507 (8-1, M-F)  and they’ll walk you through the steps.

And Visit the  Home and Garden Information Center Website

The newsletter I hope you just subscribed to is yet another excellent publication by which Maryland’s Extension Service provides outstanding information to the public, and delivers it well.   I refer to it extensively in my writing and gardening, and I’ve heard that gardeners (including Master Gardeners) in other states use it rather than the resources provided by their own state.   So I’m just saying – it’s good.

Tulips and grape hyacinths are two of my favorite bulbs

by Gardening Coach Susan Harris

Here’s my monthly garden-coaching article about what a low-maintenance gardener (ME) really does, and still has a garden she’s thrilled to look at.   So it isn’t the 30+ things I might do, or Martha Stewart (and her staff) definitely do, but the short list of things I’m really doing (and one I hope to get to).

  • I’ve planted tulips, daffodils, crocuses and muscari, but I’m wondering – do I have enough?  (December isn’t too late for planting them, ya know.) 
  • It’s still a great time to plant or move trees and shrubs and I’ve moved a few hydrangeas and viburnums this month.
  • I’m moving  perennials as needed to satisfy my semi-compulsion to tweak my garden’s design.  (True confession.)
  • I’ll keep watering if we see a dry period before it freezes.  Evergreens are particularly vulnerable to winter damage if they’re not adequately watered in the fall and I love my evergreens.
  • Although fall is NOT for pruning, it’s okay to remove dead, damaged, diseased wood in trees and shrubs, and I’m doing a bit of that.   
  • I even potted up some paperwhites!  And hope to pick up an amaryllis or two for color later. 
  • Leaf removal is, of course, THE November job, and I’ve written plenty about that already.  Whether or not to remove dead leaves is discussed here.  And then if you DO remove them, do you chop, compost, let your city compost them for you?  In my garden, the droppings from about 50 trees have already been dumped on the compost pile or will be by the end of the month. 
  • And I’m spraying for deer.  Yep, in the last two years they’ve arrived in my garden.   At first I managed a Zenlike acceptance, cheerfully giving away the hostas and moving the hydrangeas to safer spots, but those days are over.   Bambi went after one of my favorite and most expensive plants – the gorgeous dwarf white pine - and I’m packing Liquid Fence  from now on.  And if that doesn’t work, I’ll try something else (Plantskyd has also been recommended to me.) 

It's been years since my Felco #2 pruners looked this clean and sharp.

What I should do?

Clean and sharpen my tools.   It’s my least favorite chore but jeez, it’s been two years now and my pruners hardly function at all, so it’s not exactly optional anymore.

Photo credits:  tulip, grape hyacinth.

by Susan Harris

[Part 1 covered whether to remove dead leaves in the garden.]

If you’ve decided to do something positive with your dead leaves (as opposed to, say, sending them off to the landfill) there are three terrific things to do with all that organic matter.

Chop ‘em up with your mower and use them as mulch

We’ve already covered why leaving whole leaves in your flower beds may not be the best choice (and on lawns it’s definitely not).  When one local email-group discussed all the options one member posted this handy list of reasons to chop those leaves:

  • It speeds decomposition of organic material
  • It returns carbon back to the natural landscape cycle
  • It reduces turf damage/thinning from smothering leaf deposits
  • It reduces the need for synthetic fertilizers and herbicides in landscape beds
  • In managed woodland areas, it reduces leaf mats that can smother native herbaceous plants

The writer then anticipated a possible objection to all this chopping: “If there is a concern for using petroleum-based fuels for tools, use electric powered tools wherever possible.” 

And sure enough, several others rose to object to the “considerable polluting aspects of gas lawnmowers,” and one suggested that electric mowers are not an option because they’re so expensive.  Instead she uses and recommends a “hand mower”, which I guess means a reel mower, but there are mixed reports about whether they do a good job of chopping up leaves.  And to attach some numbers to the price of electric mowers, I paid about $110 for mine, and the popular Neutron you see here costs $160.   

Compost them yourself

Leaves definitely contribute to some mighty fine homemade compost, especially if you combine them with some green matter like lawn clippings for a nutritionally complete result.  But there’s disagreement about whether whole leaves compost well, and because that’s exactly what I do, I’ll weigh in – the result isn’t exactly that black gold we’re always looking for.  My compost method (such as it is) is to simply pile the leaves up and wait a year or more for them to decompose.  The problem is they never DO decompose completely because I never water or turn the pile.  (Breaking all rules, I know, but turning is hard work.)  But no matter – I use the resulting so-so “compost”, containing some noticeably uncomposted chunks, in out-of-the-way spots as mulch, or to amend the soil.

But if you want to turn dead leaves into quality compost it’s much better to chop the leaves first, and I did that for a whole season a few years back. I bought a cheap filiment-style shredder for about 100 bucks and ran all my leaves through it – and about 50 deciduous trees drop their leaves on my property, so think about the quantity of leaves we’re dealing with here! But because it was a cheap, flimsy machine, the Weedwacker-type filament broke with every twig and acorn it encountered, so approximately every five minutes I had to stop and replace the filament and the chopping process became a super headache.  If I’d spent more on a chipper-shredder the work would have gone quickly, but I judged $1,000+ to be too steep a price for faster, more uniform compost.  Another option would have been to spread all the leaves on the lawn, then mow with a mulching mower (one with a bag that collects the chopped leaves).  Sounds to me like a whole lot of work.

Yet here’s a report from a local composter who’s having a much better experience:  “I am a layperson about composting but I hand-rake leaves at our office (Anacostia Watershed Society) and wet them using a watering can to give them extra weight so that leaves are not blown away by winds. (You can skip the wetting process if you rake leaves just after a rainfall event.)  I don’t mechanically shred them.  Last fall (2008) I used this method and our horticulturist said it was good leaf compost.  No electricity needed.  Good exercise.  I didn’t use money for visiting a gym.  It takes about 10 months to make good leaf compost.”  (Thanks to Masaya at the ANS).

Thank your local guvm’t for composting them FOR you

About 20 years ago cities and counties across the U.S. began prohibiting the dumping of green waste like leaves – excellent idea! – and creating programs to collect and compost yard waste for their residents. As a result, they don’t just make good use of all that organic matter but save the money they used to spend on landfill fees.  But there’s more – they save even more money because they’re using their own homemade compost on public land instead of buying compost and fertilizer products.  All sounds very win-win, right?  

Ah, but some environmental writers have risen to protest that this requires too much transportation of leaves and compost - even when the composting operation is right there in the same county.  The answer offered by one critic?  We should all compost at home.  Sounds good, but it’s just not an option for people with small yards and not enough space for a compost operation.

So Great Dead Leaf Debate ultimately reminds me of a newspaper headline I’ve seen more times than I can count:  “Environmental groups at odds over…” 

Lower photo of leaf collecting on my street, followed by dumping of leafmold mulch in the spring.

Okay, they’re not fields, but 30,000 of them spread out over acres of greenhouses.   And this weekend you can get an inside view of how they’re grown and the surprising diversity in their look and size.

WHEN:  Saturday, November 21: 10am-4pm  and Sunday, November 22: noon-4pm  

HOW: Free shuttles will run in a continuous loop between the Homestead garden center and the greenhouses.

FOR MORE INFO: call 410.798.5000.

I’ve taken the tour myself and written about it once when the Golden Spades did the tour and last year in a report for the DC Urban Gardeners.  Bottom line – don’t forget to bring your camera!

Posted by Susan Harris

Seasonal Cooking with Rita Calvert~The Local Cook

 

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All these Thanksgiving ingredients are available at Homestead: Heritage turkey, McCutcheons Cherry Salsa, kale, collards, cauliflower, winter squash and apples

Homestead is happy to offer Heritage turkeys for your holiday.  Just place your order 

About Regular Turkeys 

You know the kind, the unnaturally broad-breasted turkey which is a mass-produced, human-engineered breed whose short life is lived in confinement, often with leg and heart problems due to their oversized breasts.  These commercially raised turkeys are confined to feed lots where they’re fed not fresh grasses and bugs but – well, something commercially produced and anything but natural to the species. 

About Heritage Turkeys

Like free-range chickens, these birds are allowed to roam and feed happily on fresh grass and insects. And they’re given NO antibiotics.  The USDA recommends that turkeys be cooked to 160F-180F, but Heritage birds are much more free of disease and bacteria so unlike commercially raised birds, they don’t need extreme temperatures to make them safe for consumption.  Bottom line, there’s no need to dry them out.

Grilled Turkey with Sugar and Spice Chunky Cherry GlazeMy favorite recipe for brined turkey

Either fresh or frozen, bring the bird to room temperature before cooking. Most Heritage turkeys are sold fresh. The rule of thumb is to allow 10 minutes per pound roasting time for Heritage or free range turkeys; we recommend filling the cavity with lots of fresh herbs of your choice.  

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The main components for the meal

For brining use a special brining bag or double-bag two heavy-duty, unscented trash bags and put them in an ice chest that is large enough to hold the turkey. If your holiday bird is smaller as the one we tested, it should fit in your refrigerator.

  • 1 fresh heritage turkey,  about 12 pounds

For the Brine

  • 2/3 cup kosher salt
  • 1 cup light brown sugar
  • 1 tablespoon black peppercorns
  • 2 gallons cold water
  • 3 bay leaves, torn into pieces
  • 1 bunch fresh thyme     

Sugar and Spice Chunky Cherry Glaze

Makes 2 1/4 cup

This is a big PS: The glaze is so good you’ll devour it by the spoonful so consider doubling the recipe. Make 1 1/2 times the recipe for a large turkey. 

  • 1 1/2 cups McCutcheons Cherry Salsa
  • 3/4 cup Boar’s Head Sugar and Spice Glaze
  • 1/2 cup dried cherries for sauce
  • 1/4 cup balsamic vinegar

Brining

Remove the giblet bag from turkey, along with any extra internal fat and pin feathers. Rinse well under cold water. If using a large sturdy bag combine the salt, sugar, peppercorns and bay leaves in the bag and add the cold water. Stir until sugar and salt dissolve. There should be enough liquid to completely cover the bird. Press out air in bags; tightly close each bag separately. Keep turkey cold with bags of ice, which will also help keep it submerged in the brine. Brine for 12-24 hours. 

OR place turkey and brine in a large pan or bowl. Refrigerate for 12-24 hours. If turkey floats to top, weight it down with a plate and cans to keep it submerged in brine.

Make the Glaze

Combine the Cherry Salsa and glaze. Remove 1 cup of the glaze mixture for the final serving sauce.

Place the dried cherries in a small bowl and cover with balsamic vinegar. Let stand at room temperature for 1 hour to plump and then add to reserved Cherry Glaze as the final serving sauce.

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Cooking greens available at Homestead Gardens

Grill Roasting

Preheat grill to medium high heat. Sprinkle pepper over skin and in cavity. Tuck wing tips under, loosely truss legs and place turkey on a V-shaped rack in a roasting pan.  (You may want a layer of heavy foil wrapped around the bottom of the pan to protect it from the flames or use a heavy, disposable roasting pan). Tent breast loosely with foil.

For the 1st hour over cook the bird directly over the fire with heavy foil.  For the second hour move to the indirect heat side of the grill and spoon some glaze over the turkey. Repeat the glazing at least 2 more times during the grill roasting.

For doneness, test with an accurate thermometer, making sure not to touch the bone with the tip of the thermometer. The turkey should have an internal thigh temperature of 140F-150F.

Let the roasted bird rest 10-15 minutes before carving. Pass extra Cherry Glaze along side.

 

MarylandTrees

by Susan Harris

Maryland residents, lucky you!  You’re eligible for a $25 off coupon toward the purchase of any eligible tree priced at $50 or more.  The state is hoping to have 1 million new trees planted by 2011, and they’re asking private citizens to plant at least 50,000 trees by 2010 (and that $25 coupon is a nice incentive).  But the coupon deal expires November 30, 2009, so act now – it’s as easy as 1-2!

1. Just click here to download a coupon.   This isn’t a mail-in program; you just print that coupon and take it to the store (hopefully Homestead, which is the largest source of trees bought under this program so far.) The coupon is valid only for trees listed on the Marylanders Plant Trees Recommended Tree List, found at www.trees.maryland.gov/pickatree.asp  They’re all native species, including:

Small trees like dogwood, American holly, Sweetbay magnolia, redbud and serviceberry.

Large trees like Canadian hemlock, sugar maple, river birch, sycamore, American elm, tulip poplar, and several oaks.

2. Then click here to register your tree.  This is optional but again there’s an incentive – it makes you eligible for all sorts of prizes.

Explore the Marylanders Plant Trees website for tons of advice on where, how and what type of trees to plant.

Value of Trees
Trees protect water quality, clean our air and provide wildlife habitat. One large tree can eliminate 5,000 gallons of stormwater runoff each year, and well placed trees can help reduce energy costs by 15 to 35 percent.  Trees also enhance our quality of life, beautifying neighborhoods and highways, providing sound barriers and shade, and helping increase property values.

Photo credits: holly, Sweetbay magnoliaredbud, and  sugar maple.

by Susan Harris

On the 15th of every month, over 150 garden bloggers from around the world take part in a fun event - posting photos of what’s blooming in their garden.   Garden Blogger Bloom Day was launched by the very popular Indiana blogger at May Dreams Gardens years ago and it’s gotten more popular every month since.  Here’s the link to her own Bloom Day post today and scroll down to find links to all the other Bloom Day posts.    Bloggers in the coldest climates won’t be posting today or probably until next April but lucky us in Maryland, we still have plenty to show off.   So here’s what blooming or “blooming” (with color from leaves or fruit) on my street in Takoma Park, MD.

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Red 'Knockout' Roses

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Pink 'Knockout'

It’s not for nothing that ‘Knockout’ roses are so popular – they’re still going strong on November 15 and displaying perfect, disease-free foliage.  The top photo shows a nice mass of reds in my neighborhood, and here’s one lone pink Knockout in my front garden.

Below, going rogue on the official meaning of “blooming,” I’m showing off a neighbor’s maple that easily rivals any blooms for sheer impact.  Or, as they’re constantly saying on HGTV, pop.

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Unknown Maple

And finally, how’s this for pop in the garden the week before Thanksgiving, huh?

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Winterberry hollies, Amsonia hubrichtii and Nandina

Next month I’m afraid there won’t be anything to see in anyone’s garden on my street, so I promise to show off what’s “blooming” at the garden center, both indoors and out.   Til December 15!

Other Bloom Day Observers in our Area

Just two.  There’s Jennah’s Garden in Hollywood, MD.  And the Washington Gardener Blog from Silver Spring, MD.

rakingFlickrFrotzed2

by Susan Harris

It all started when an article called “Leaf it Be!” was distributed via email list to gardeners around Metro DC.   In it, the author comes to the rescue of dead leaves, saying they’re ”an important part of the ecosystem, a natural fertilizer.  When did they become our enemy?”  And she’s right – dead leaves, when left in the garden, hold water, neutralize acid, and slowly release nutrients.  They’re a valuable resource that we can all agree don’t belong in some landfill. 

But figuring out exactly WHAT to do with dead leaves turns out to be no easy thing.   ‘Leaf it Be!” and a bunch of animated email group responses to it got me interested in the answer(s).

In Borders and around Trees and Shrubs

More and more we’re being urged to leave dead leaves in place in the garden, and clearly in some situations it’s a fine idea.  But not for all, including my own garden with its abundance of mature oaks.  Like most everything in nature, it depends.  In this case, you have to ask:

  • How many leaves are we talking about? 
  • How kind of leaves – the big oak leaves that prevent water from penetrating the soil, or thin elm leaves that don’t smother plants?
  • And will the leaves be covering a groundcover you’d rather not kill?    

What everyone DOES agree on is that putting chopped dead leaves in borders and around trees and shrubs is fine.  Actually, it’s terrific – because chopped leaves do all those great things that leaves do, without doing any harm.  It enjoys all the benefits we’ve come to know and love in any good organic mulch, which is what chopped leaves become.  For about chopped-leaf mulch, check the Illinois Extension Service.  

On Lawn

Apparently NO one is suggesting that whole leaves be allowed to sit on and eventually smother the lawn.    (Don’t believe me?)  But it’s also true that lots of experts are now advising chopping up the leaves that drop on lawn -  by mowing over them – and leaving them in place to serve as a source of organic matter for the soil and some nutrients for the turfgrass.  Chopped leaves are known to increase microbial activity in the soil.  

But wait; some brand new research proves that chopped leaves not only add organic matter and nutrients – they suppress weedsHere’s the story.  

Anywhere in the Garden

With all this discussion of leaves being left in the garden, an email from Ed Brandt to the email group got everyone’s attention because he’s a big shot in the regional office of the EPA.  He quoted from the Tick Management Handbook by Kirby Stafford, which repeatedly recommends removing leaves.  It wasn’t clear if that included chopped leaves, so we need a bit of clarification there, Ed.

On Hard Surfaces

For obvious safety purposes, dead leaves should be removed early and often from surfaces people walk on.   And certainly all wood surfaces benefit from having the leaves removed to prevent rotting.  

The Great Leaf Debate Continues on this Blog, with posts covering:

  • Composting the leaves you DO remove – DIY or by your city or county.
  • The joys and perils of leaf-chopping

Photo credit.

by Rita Calvert, the Local Cook  (More about spaghetti squash right here.)

Serves 6vegRagueSpaSquadh

In this produce rich recipe spaghetti squash is masquerading as pasta to a delicious and healthy effect. You certainly can add meat or poultry to the ragu. Serve with a tossed garden salad chock full of more veggies.

  • 3 medium cloves garlic
  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 small (2-1/2 pound) spaghetti squash, halved lengthwise and seeded
  • 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 small yellow onion, finely chopped
  • 8 ounces fresh sliced mushrooms
  • 1 1/2 cups fresh Swiss chard or spinach, cut into ribbons
  • 1 (28-ounce) can diced Fire Roasted tomatoes (Muir Glen)
  • 1 tablespoon chopped fresh sage or rosemary
  • 1/4 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

Arrange the spaghetti squash in a single layer in the bottom of a large, wide pot. (Don’t worry if the squash halves don’t lie completely flat in the pot.) Add 1/2 inch of water, cover the pot, and bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer and cook until the squash is tender enough to shred when raked with a fork but still somewhat crisp, 15 to 20 minutes. Transfer the squash to a plate and set aside until cool enough to handle.

While the squash cooks, heat the oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat. Add the chopped garlic, onion, 1/2 teaspoon, salt, and 1/4 teaspoon pepper; cook 4 minutes. Add the tomatoes with juice and herbs; stir well and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium low and simmer for 10 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

With a fork, ‘rake’ the squash flesh into strands, transfer to plates, and season to taste with salt. Ladle the ragù over the squash and garnish with the Parmigiano.

Spaghetti Squash

by Rita Calvert, the Local Cook

What is it?squash
True spaghetti squash is pale ivory to pale yellow in color, in the early 1990’s, an orange spaghetti squash, known as “Orangetti” was developed and this is what is frequently found in today’s supermarkets. Higher in beta carotene, the orange variety is also bit sweeter than its paler brother. A four-ounce serving of spaghetti squash has only 37 calories.

Most squash termed, winter are actually harvested when the temperatures begin to cool and are also ‘good keepers’. This so-called winter variety is named for the strands which resemble spaghetti when cooked.

Choosing:
Choose squash that are heavy for their size and have a hard, deep-colored rind free of blemishes or moldy spots. Squash grow resting on the ground as a watermelon would, so don’t be turned off by the underside which resembles that of the watermelon. After all they don’t grow on velvet liners.

Cooking:
Sometimes I experiment and puncture the skin quite a few times with a fork and bake the squash whole at 375F for about 1-1 1/4 hour. Or halve the squash lengthwise and scoop out the seeds. Place the squash halves cut side down on a heavy-duty rimmed baking sheet, and bake at 350°F until the strands of flesh separate easily when raked with a fork, 50 minutes to 1 hour. Taste a few strands: they should be tender. If not, continue to bake. No matter which cooking technique you choose, always rake the cooked strands with the tines of a fork.

My Test Kitchen:
As my squash test went the steamed spaghetti squash was easier to rake into shreds that the baked squash. The taste was quite similar to the baked version. Make sure to steam in a smaller amount of water rather than boil it so it doesn’t take on too much water and get mushy.

Storing:
Store the raw whole spaghetti squash for several weeks at cool room temperature or even longer in a root cellar or cool garage with airflow.

Simple Servings:
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  • Toss the cooked Spaghetti Squash strands with olive oil and some fresh herbs like rosemary. Top with Baba ganoush or even a bit of hummus.
  • Mix cooked spaghetti squash with a little egg and flour. Add fresh minced ginger, white pepper and sliced green onions (but no salt). Fry like a potato pancake and serve with soy sauce. Yum!
  • Cook Spaghetti Squash by cutting in half and cooking like a pumpkin or butternut squash in the oven until it can be easily pierced by a fork. Gently scoop out squash ‘noodles’ and serve hot with red sauce or cooled like a noodle salad with your favorite dressing.
  • Saute garlic and butter until the garlic is soft. Cut the squash in half and steam the squash until tender. Then separate from the shell by running a fork along the length of the squash to get spaghetti-like strands. Add to the pan and toss to coat with butter and garlic. Top the mound of strands with some plain yogurt, lentils, red onion and mint.

And try this great recipe for Vegetable Ragu on Spaghetti Squash.

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